Miyajima And Onto Kyoto
We wake later than expected to the rustling of Kumiko in the kitchen. Good sleeps, good eats and good company, set us on our way with a spring in our step, despite our regrets of having to leave Hiroshima. As we say our goodbyes to Kumiko, she asks us to leave a mark in the sand of her traditional Japnese garden. Our time here will no doubt have a ripple affect on us, long after we and our mark have gone.
Our first stop on the train is about hour away — Miyajima, Island of the Gods. Reported as one the most scenic spots in Japan this is tourist central. A sacred place with temples and gift shops always within reach.
We have arrived early enough to avoid the crowds, but not the deer. They roam free on the island, sacred we hear, but utterly smug in this fact — owning the place it seems (the deer not the tourists), catching visitors off guard in attempts to partake in their delicious maps, guidebooks and snacks.
We decide to hike away from the shop-lined shore and up into the parklands for a glimpse of their natural habitat. We reach disappointment when there are no deer to see for all the trees. These deer must be clever, either hiding from us or seeking us out at the shore. We treat ourselves instead to sweet potato ice cream, and maple shaped cakes — momiji manjyu, a speciality in these parts for over 100 years.
Back on the shore we see the great floating Torri gates have changed markedly over the past hour. The tide has gone out and the tourists have come in. Selfies and selfi-sticks capture their presence at this gate, the boundary between the spirit and human worlds. It's vermilion colour is said to keep evil spirits away. It doesnt seem to work against selfies unfortunately, perhaps they were less of a problem back in 1168.
It's time to catch a boat off the island and go bullet-speed to Kyoto.
It's dark by the time we arrive and we feel rushed, late, as we walk from Kyoto station to our AirBnb. We've planned to catch up with Hikaru, a friend from high school who was on exchange in New Zealand. 15 or so years later, we're in Japan, his home, and he's at our doorstep.
The night is young, us, less so, with no time to waste. We're off to Nijojo Castle for some nighttime Sakura. We arrived in Japan at the start of the season and at our last stop, Kyoto, the cherry blossoms are in the fullest bloom we've seen. The crowds should have been expected but it's after dark and our weary eyes admit to doing equal measures of cherry blossom and people watching — more selfies!!
We escape the crowds at the castle and join the crowds lining up for dinner. Our stomaches asked for ramen and Hikaru delivered this all too conveniently near our AirBnb. Daiichi-asahi, has a long history, once known as a stop for taxi drivers, now popular with those who have time to lineup for something done simply but impeccably well. Satisfying, soothing and now we step sleepily towards zzzz.
